June 30, 2010
A stroll in many areas of the Loire will conjure up images of wealthy kings, flamboyant chateaux and lavish entertaining. One could easily imagine a few contented peasants toiling happily in the meadows or tending the vines.
Looking around the catalan villages we saw in the Pyrénées Orientales, I could somehow tell that life had been, and probably still was, hard for some people.
Fellow bloggers Leon and Sue are currently posting about their time in the region and if you would like to find out more about the history of the place, you could try there.
During our little tour, we came across another village which was also very picturesque and charming. There was a pottery selling lots of lovely bright pots ready for the tourist season, and some very attractive more artistic pieces. We bought a small dish to add to our collection of pots purchased all over France.
The lady in the pottery (the French term is potier, I think) told us that the village church was in such poor repair that it is no longer in use. What a shame. (The dog in the picture belongs to the potier.)
The village had some very old buildings in poor repair and others that were beautifully restored. I wondered who lived in each kind of house, if the better ones were maison secondaires and therefore unoccupied a lot of the time. I hoped not.
We admired the potier's handywork on the outside of the building. (Poteriste would have been a better word, I think . According to the principles of Crabtree anyway !)
June 27, 2010
June 25, 2010
Lately we have had help from Jack, who makes cakes for the sale and also helps to distribute the goodies around the town.
He has branched out into cupcakes and brought us some samples to try. What a star !!
These particular cupcakes are some he made for a wedding.
If you passed Jack in the street, you would never think "there goes a man who looks like he makes delicious cupcakes". But as you can see, he is very talented.
June 23, 2010
This is the side door of a house that we think was for sale, pictured below.
The church was in the process of being repaired and a local person produced the key and let us in for a private look around. Inside it was beautiful but in a sorry state and we could see that it would take a lot more than the 400€ a year allocated to it by the Mairie to restore it to its former glory. Some of the stained glass windows were broken and Cyn offered to help with this as she is studying the techniques in her spare time. Every little helps when the locals are trying to restore the church by doing the work themselves.
Our view of the mystery village as we left it behind us and climed further up the hillside.
June 19, 2010
Bearing in mind that she had already done an epic journey, 12 hours and 600 miles, in the car from our home in England to Le Grand-Pressigny, after only two days we were up and off again, all the way south to Perpignan. It would be another 6 hours and 400 miles. She is so adaptable and when we got to Pete and Cyn's, she happily explored her new surroundings, settling in really well straight away. Of course, if the host gives her the bowl to lick it always helps.
We had a lovely evening with Pete and Cyn, dining in comfort and style. They are vegetarians and it is always a treat to eat veggie food cooked by such good and enthusiastic cooks. A lack of meat does not mean that food has to be boring and in fact we have meatless meals ourselves at home quite often.
For main course we had a superb vegetarian moussaka that Cynthia had made for us. Lulu was available for any titbits that might just come her way. Veggie food is fine with her, especially if it happens to have some of that delicious sauce on it, like the one she tasted from the bowl earlier !
Next morning, Nick fetched bread from the boulangerie in the village whilst Lulu helped Peter to make a few calls and Cyn laid the breakfast table.
Nick reported that his shopping experience had been quite a challenge. He had used his best Crabtree French but had had difficulty in making himself understood. The local accent is very different from that in the Loire and not only that, the bread was completely different, too. He came back with whatever he was given by the shopkeeper, beating a hasty retreat before he dug an even bigger hole for himself. Luckily, it was very tasty.
After breakfast we all piled into our car, including Lulu, and off we set for a day out. Our destination was the Gorges de Galamus, which is not very far away.
June 17, 2010
Having spent the weekend at LGP, we travelled south on the Monday morning. We had a reasonably early start but progress was slow as the weather was awful - we had heavy rain for the first 3 hours. The motorway was especially busy around Limoges and Toulouse, making it very hard work. Suddenly it cleared up and we arrived at Cassagnes at apéro time - 6 pm.
Our view of Cassagnes as we arrived in the evening sunshine.
The journey south brought back many happy memories as we passed Souillac, Cahors and Carcassone - all places we had stayed in the past, usually on our motorcycle camping tours. Gradually the surroundings changed and we lost the lush green of the Loire valley and the creamy crumbliness of its buildings. Around Toulouse the terrain started to look drier and the roofs of the buildings became flatter - mediterranean style.When we arrived it was noticeably warmer and sunnier than further north. No surprise there. But there was a strong wind blowing, the tramontane. This is the southwest's equivalent of the mistral. It felt like we were being blown constantly by a warm hair dryer. Pete & Cyn said it can blow for several weeks at a time.
Pete and Cyn's house.
Their house is a three-storey building, built in a style which is typical of the region. They have been gradually "doing it up" over the five years they have owned it and the renovations are almost complete. They have transformed it from a rather unloved house into a beautiful family home. They have moved the living areas (kitchen and sitting room) to the top floor where they have built a balcony which has magnificent views over the village and of the hills in the distance.
The view from the balcony.
We had a great evening with our friends, eating a lovely meal, admiring the progress they had made with their renovations and catching up. Their experience in buying and renovating in France influenced us a great deal when we came to look for a house ourselves. They gave us much encouragement and helped to dispel many of the fears we had.
We had a good night's sleep and awoke refreshed and ready to do some exploring the next day.